Manhattan - Berlyn
The prime restaurant location for visitors to the Brooklyn Academy of Music has changed hands but remains in a Germanic mode like its predecessor, Thomas Beisl.
Ursula and Jonas Hegewisch, the new owners, have found room to display their vintage pewter bric-a-brac, including a few gnomes. The chef, Steven Linares, offers dishes like corned beef with root vegetables; choucroute; and maultaschen, a ravioli in mushroom broth. Rote grutze, with red berries, is one of the desserts. Germany and Austria dominate the wines. (New York Times)